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April 7, 2019

Ginger Jeans: The Kaufman

ジーンズ作成が続きますが、前回のジーンズは、今回のジーンズを作るための試作品だったのよ。今回のが本番なのよ。

私、足が短いからスキニージーンズが似合わないのでやっぱりジーンズは昔ながらのブーツカットが好きなのです。まだまだフィットに問題は残るけど、自分でジーンズが作れるということにもう大満足です。

ちなみに在宅で仕事するようになって、全くヒールのある靴を履かなくなったのでこの赤い靴履くの2年半ぶりぐらい?なんか、キツイ。


I was happy with the muslin, so I made the full-length Ginger Jeans that I originally intended to make.


The pattern is, as you know, the Ginger Jeans from Closet Case Patterns. I used the mid-rise version pattern for the waist/hip, then the flare pattern for the thigh down.





I cut a size 8 and shortened the flare pattern by 4". (The pattern says it's drafted for the height 5'6". I am 5'3" and particularly short legged.)

One of the good things about this pattern is that the back pocket pattern also comes in multiple sizes, it's not one-size-fits-all. I am using a size 6 back pocket pattern and size 6 back pocket placement.


While I wanted the flare version and loved other people's flare version, the pattern looked a bit too flare for me, so I reduced the flare by 1" each side (4" total reduction in circumference) for a more boots cut style .

I ended up letting out the top of the side seams for more room for the waist but I think I overdid it, it is now a bit too loose.

I also trimmed about 1/2" at the top of the yoke at the center back for sway back and deepened the back crotch curve just like I did on my muslin.

Still got a lot of problem with back legs but that's for another day.


The fabric was Robert Kaufman stretch denim, 8.6 oz, which has 4% Lychra. I washed it twice before I cut the fabric but still it made my hands blue every day while I was sewing. I will have to wash them a few more times before I can wear them safely without transferring dyes everywhere.

The lining fabric happened to also be Robert Kaufman fabric. It was a leftover fabric from my Butterick B5526 shirt.


The legs of the flare pattern are looser fit than the skinny pattern and they feel a bit more trouser-like because of that. I think the next time, I will use the skinny pattern and just flare out the legs from the knee.

I have joined the Pattern Review's jeans/pants contest and I'm really glad I was able to finish this pair on time!

3 comments:

  1. Hi! Great job on your Gingers. I'd like to sign up for your blog and can't find out how. (I'm on a phone.) Thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Hi Lodi. Sorry for my slow response. Binge watching Downton Abbey got in a way :P I added the "Follow by Email" gudget. I hope it works :)

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  2. Congratulations on your Pattern Review WIN! I found the gadget/doohickey-thanks! (And who wouldn't binge watch Downton Abbey if given the opportunity!)
    I have very slim thighs and no butt, so I wonder if I'd be happier with the skinny pattern also...

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