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March 30, 2017

Butterick B5526 #2

この前作ったシャツの型紙で、今度はギンガムチェックなシャツを作った。
袖口に失敗があり、胸張って見せられるものではないけど、袖口隠せればオッケー。もしくは袖をまくっておけばオッケー。
前回のシャツよりも布が柔らかいので、着心地はいいです。


I made my second Butterick B5526 shirt. The same princess seam version with long sleeves.
I used Robert Kaufman gingham fabric. The fabric is much softer than my dirndl left-over shirt and more comfortable to wear.


This time, I cut a size 10, narrowed the sleeves by 5/8" each side, shorten the bodice by 1", and took in 1/2" on the side seams waist down.

The major failure comes from the sleeve placket.


The pattern does not come with a proper sleeve placket; it just has a binding finish. So I used a placket pattern that came with Janet Pray's shirtmaking Craftsy course. The placket actually finished off rather nicely for my very first placket (and did not even make a practice one), but the width of the sleeve did not match the width the cuff now.

So I made the sleeve pleat deeper to compensate, which was a huge mistake. I should have at least divided the pleat into 2 separate pleats. Now I have this huge bulky pleat on my sleeve.

I also did not have enough matching buttons for sleeve placket so the placket is button-less. I usually prefer to keep my cuff unbuttoned, but without the button at the placket, the sleeve opens up too big.

So while I like the shirt very much, I have to either hide the sleeves under a jacket of some sort, or roll them up. I'm glad that I used a casual fabric.

Overall, I really enjoy the process of making shirts. I find it very satisfying. Now I need to finish watching Pam Howard's shirtmaking class on Craftsy again. I watched them a couple of years ago or so but could not finish them because... Pam seems like a really nice lady, but the slowness and the softness of her speech made me sleepy every time... But I found a way: watch it with 1.5x speed; makes it a perfect speed to watch.

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