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April 30, 2017

Backpack Chronicle 5

リュックサック製作も佳境。でも時には縫ってる途中でもやめて仕事に移らないといけない時もある(一応パートタイムで仕事続けております)。趣味と仕事が50センチぐらいしか離れていないと途中な縫い目がとても気になる。(ロックミシンの針折れたんだよね)





Sometimes, I have to just stop in the middle of a seam (because I broke my serger needle) and have to "go to work." My "work" is less than 2 feet away from my hobby (I work remotely).

I have come to a point where I can finally start assembling my backpack. One thing I did not think about is how thick the seams are at this point. I can barely fit it under the foot. No way I can sew a 1/4" seam on this thick edge.

April 29, 2017

Backpack Chronicle 4

リュック作り、未だに進行中。
底に入れる芯がないので、シリアルの箱を切ってテープでカバーしてみた。





I am ever so slowly progressing with my backpack project.
Since I don't have the bag bottom thingy at hand (hate to think that I own so much supplies but they are all in the storage), I used a cereal box instead. Double layer, wrapped with packaging tape. I would say it's sturdy enough.

April 28, 2017

Backpack Chronicle 3

小型リュックにつけるストラップの金具を間違ったサイズで注文したため、再注文。
最初に買ったやつよりもいいのが買えました。よかった。


先日、買ったパイピングが固すぎて使い物にならないと言ったけど、やっぱりパイピングをつけたくて、無理やりつけてみた。出来は微妙。(固いんだもん)






My re-ordered hardware have arrived for my backpack. And I'm glad I reordered them. They are much nicer than my original el cheapo ones.

I mentioned the other day that I bought some marine grade piping but it turned out too stiff. After I made the first front panel with the pocket flap, I became apparent that I needed piping for an accent. So for the second bag (I'm making 2 at the same time), I used the piping. It was doable, thanks to my powerful machine, but my skill isn't quite there apply the stiff piping. The pocket flap and the top stitching is, well, not quite perfect.

April 26, 2017

Backpack Chronicle 2

小型リュック、ちまちまと作っています。2個同時制作。



My backpack project is moving forward, slowly. I am actually making 2 at the same time.

I had some difficulty with my shoulder strap. The strap is a poly webbing covered with fabric. I like the idea of having a webbing in the fabric to give strength. However, I originally interfaced the fabric with rather stiff fusible (the one I use for shirt collar) and it was too thick when I inserted the poly webbing in it. So I had to rip the seam, and rip the interfacing off the fabric strip and re-sewed it without the fusible. Thanks to the webbing, it is still nice and strong.

Lesson learned about making a fabric tube: make sure to press the seam open BEFORE turning the fabric tube inside out. Such a small thing, but makes the world of difference.

Also, I found out that the hardware I got (square belt sliders) were too short that the strap could only go through once but not the other way to make the strap adjustable. Back to online shopping... (because there is no JoAnn that I can just run to sadly).

April 23, 2017

Small Great Things

よくアメリカは人種るつぼと言われるけど、実はそうでもない。あまり交わらない。特に「白人対黒人」みたいなのは見えないところでものすごく根強い。外国人として、日本人として、アジア人として、移民としてサイドラインからアメリカの人種問題を見ていると、なんでいつまでもこうなんだろう、ととても思う。

表面的にはるつぼを気取っているけど、なんで交わらないんだろう。なんで固執するんだろう。それは嫌悪感というよりも、やはり自分と似たものと一緒にいたいという連帯感からくるんじゃないかと思う。だから白人は白人と友達になりやすいし、黒人は黒人とつるみやすい。そうやってグループ化するから溝は全く狭まらない。グループ化してその文化の中で育つから、社会的地位が変わることもなく、明らかな「人種差別」が社会的に禁止されている中でもやはり黒人人口の多くが貧困層にとどまり、犯罪歴が付く。

ジョディ・ピコー著、「Small Great Things」を読みました。(「私の中のあなた」という映画の原作を書いた人)いい本、というと悲しくなるけど、アメリカの現在の人種問題をものすごく的確に表現している本でした。


It is not a racial melting pot in the U.S. as it's often called. White people hang out with white people, and black people hang out with black people, even though they may live in a same neighborhood and has similar social status. Most of the time, it's not the overt racial discrimination; rather it's just people are more comfortable with other people who are similar to themselves. Just like jocks hang out with jocks and nerds hang out with nerds (in a way, regardless of their race). When I was going to school in the South, I always noticed that white students take a seat next to another white student in the first day of class, and black student takes a seat next to another black student. Nobody sat next to me.

Because they stay in a group, many white people stay in the legacy social status of middle class and black people in poverty. Not much social mobility unless you consciously pursue it real hard. Not because society doesn't allow it to be, but because people in a same group tend to act similarly; if your friends are criminals, it's accepted for you to be a criminal,too; if your friends go to college, you decide to go to college, too.

As a Japanese, an Asian (a true minority for that matter), a foreigner, and an immigrant, I tend to see American racial issues from the sideline. And it's difficult to understand why Americans are so infatuated with their race.

(I'm not saying there is no racial discrimination in Japan. In a lot of way, Japan has more overt racial and ethnic discrimination widely accepted in society, sadly.)

I read Jodi Picoult's Small Great Things. I would recommend this book to anybody in a heartbeat.

It is written from three different characters' points of view:

-Ruth, a black, hard working and experienced labor and delivery nurse with her nursing degree from Yale, who has worked so hard to have a middle class life even after losing her military husband who was killed on duty and to raise her son to be a straight A student, who gets accused of murdering a newborn baby;

-Turk, a hardcore white supremacist, former active skinhead (now a covert) who has a swastika tattooed on his head, who becomes a first-time father and requested the hospital to take Ruth off his son's care, whose newborn son dies when the baby was under Ruth's watch;

-Kennedy, a white public defender, who has financial ability to be a public defender because her white husband is a doctor, who defends Ruth on her first murder trial.

First of all, it's a page turner because of the interesting story, and what's not to like about trial.

But what's so clever about this book is that it's written in these points of views, and it is well researched, and you get to know the both side of the story.

Obviously, Ruth and Turk are polar opposite. The writer cleverly chose the black character to be the highly educated, middle class, responsible person in the society, and the white character to be the uneducated laborer, and criminal. You get to know how they grew up and how they got to a point where they are.

But the most important character is Kennedy. She basically is like us, yes, me included despite me being neither black nor white, who lives in American society, living their lives without thinking about race unless there is a news on TV about police shooting an unarmed black man.

This was a heavy blow in a stomach book with the writing that is very pleasurable to read.

April 17, 2017

Backpack Chronicle 1

小型なリュックを作っています。
材料をそろえてみたものの、白いパイピングは固すぎて使い物にならないと発覚(涙)オンラインショッピングは触って確かめられないので思っていた物と違うとつらいね。


鞄は小型なパーツを、外側の布、接着芯、内側の布、間に挟むスポンジな芯、と何度も切らないといけないので頭が痛くなります。


Making a small backpack.
Since none of the material could be sourced locally (fate of living in a rural area), I had to rely on online shopping. I bought a couple of meters of white piping, and it was too thick and hard to be usable for this project. Yup, I did not know what "marine grade" piping meant...


Zipper strip is done.


And the front panel is done.
The panels are getting quite thick and I'm a bit worried if I could attach the panels together nicely. In a way, I'm glad that I ditched the piping idea. But the white piping would have been so much cuter...

April 13, 2017

Colette Sorbetto

ディアンドルのエプロン用に買ったシルクの最後の残り布で、タンクトップを作ってみました。
型紙はコレット社の無料ダウンロードパターン、Sorbetto
次に作るときは胸のダーツの位置をあげたほうがいいな。


I had just enough silk dupioni left-over from my dirndl project and my bow collar blouse for Colette's free downloadable pattern, Sorbetto. They released the "updated" version of Sorbetto last month.

Though Colette's patterns are usually not something I would be interested, Colette's blog was one of the first sewing blogs I started following. From their blog posts, I know they were going through some changes in their business and pattern making and I was intrigued by the "updated" Sorbetto.

I made their "original" Sorbetto back in 2013. This particular one did not survive my purging due to wrong fabric choice (quilting cotton). I don't have my project notes from this one but I remember the armhole being too high and tight and lowering the front neck. Looks like I added a hem band to lengthen.

Sorbetto in 2013
The "updated" Sorbetto, I cut a size 0, and added a center back seam for a bit of contouring.


The pattern has a side bust dart, and ...it looked... funny on the pattern. The bust dart on the pattern looked very symmetrical. Since bust dart was ginormous (drafted for busty ladies), I decreased the bust dart to 2", folded the dart to fix the side seam, then I realized why the bust dart looked funny: it was not trued. When I folded the bust dart to mimic the sewing, it created a big kink in the side seam. There is a good Pattern Review review with a photo of this kink. Glad that I realized it before I started sewing. I smoothed out the side seam and trued with the back bodice pattern.


The pattern called for bias binding finish around the neck and armhole. I did the bias facing instead, without adjusting the pattern, so the neck and armhole openings are consequently wider.


If I am to make another Sorbetto, I will have to raise the bust dart by 1 and 1/2" or so. I would also add seam allowance to the armhole and do the bias facing.

It's a pretty simple shell pattern and it's great that it is free. But I was very disappointed at the side seam kink at the bust dart. It's like WHY?! A commercial, professionally drafted pattern, that only has 2 pattern pieces with only a handful seams, and that kink was proudly on the publicly released pattern?

Aside from that, I think the amount of ease is a appropriate for a woven tank top with no closure.

April 8, 2017

The One Memory of Flora Banks

数時間ごとに短期の記憶をなくしてしまう女の子、フローラが初めての接吻のことだけはしっかり覚えていられるようになり、ラブラブモードで初キスをくれた男子をおいかけて北極圏に旅するという本を読みました。もちろんフィクション。
ヤングアダルト向けの本だったのでサクサクと読めたけど、イマイチでした。


I read The One Memory of Flora Banks by Emily Barr.

★★☆☆☆

The young girl, Flora, loses her short-term memory every few hours. She her old memory from before she got sick, but she relies on writing things on her arm and her notebook to remind her that she is 17 and she needs to be brave.

One day, a boy named Drake kissed her. Now, she remembers the kiss day after day after day and she gets excited that she can remember. She falls head over heels in love with Drake. So she decides to go the Arctic (from Cornwall) where Drake has moved and look for him.

The book is categorized as for young adults, and I think it properly was. Other than the very confused girl's adventure to the Arctic, the story was a bit too convenient and fairy tale-ish.

April 4, 2017

Stonehenge

イギリスの世界遺産巡り第2弾。ストーンヘンジに行ってきた。
駐車場からストーンヘンジまではバスが出てるんだけど、いい天気だったので歩いて行きました。菜の花も満開で天気も良くて、観光というよりピクニック。



Our second World Heritage site in England is Stonehenge. The oldest man-made structure I have ever seen and probably I will ever see.

You can take a shuttle bus between the visitor center and the Stonehenge site, but we took a walk since the weather was really nice. The rapeseed field was in full bloom. It felt more like a picnic than a sightseeing.

April 2, 2017

Bow Collar Blouse

去年のちょうど今頃、カリフォルニアに行った時に紀伊国屋に行って、茅木真知子さんの「ドレスアップ・ドレスダウン」という洋裁の本を買いました。


この本の最初にのっていた、ノースリーブのブラウスをつくってみました。布はディアンドルのエプロンの残りの布。


ちなみにポーズに意味はなし。もちろんまだ肌寒いので実際に着るのはまだお預け。

日本の洋裁の型紙で裁縫することがめったにないので、いまだに用語に慣れません。っていうか、洋裁用語がイマイチわかりません。でもわかりやすい図が乗っているので作り方は読むっていうより、絵を見て想像する、という感じです。オリジナルは背中にボタンがついてるんだけど(ボタンダウンのシャツを前後ろで着た感じ)、ボタンをつけずに縫い上げてスリットを入れて被って着れるようにしました。

この本、とても好き。どの服もシンプルなんだけど、シンプルゆえにどれもそろえておきたい感じ。


When we visited California last March, I stopped by Kinokuniya (Japanese book store) and picked up a Japanese sewing book called Simple Chic Dress Up Dress Down by Machiko Kayaki. 1 year later, I finally sewed a garment from the book. I made the first garment in the book, a bow collar blouse. It is a simple sleeveless shell with a scarf collar.


The book comes with patterns for 3 sizes: 9, 11, 13. Basically they are the Japanese Small, Medium, and Large. I made a size 11. I am a typical Medium in Japan. Though I can read Japanese, I'm not familiar with sewing terminology, so it felt kind of funny to follow sewing instruction in Japanese.

The original blouse actually has a button closure at the back (imagine backwards shirt), but since I don't want to feel buttons on my back (do I sit on office chair too much?), I sewed up the center back (with some back contouring) and left a keyhole opening so that I can put it over my head. The top of the center back is closed with a hook and eye.

The fabric is a left over silk dupioni from my dirndl apron.

The collar extends as a long tie, and since it is a single layer, the raw edges need to be finished. I decided to try my rolled hem skill and used my rolled hem foot for the first time.


I really like how it worked. I was too lazy to do a practice run, and just went with it. It made a really dainty tiny rolled hem. I liked it so much that I finished my hem with this rolled hem as well.

I need to lower the bust darts and wast position and also the center back. You can see in the above photo that the key hole opening in the back wants to come down and gape open. But I like the kind of dramatic effect of the tie collar and the luster of the fabric.

April 1, 2017

Harry Potter Studio Tour

10年にわたって映画「ハリーポッター」シリーズが撮影されたスタジオは、現在映画のセットや小道具を集めて展示されている、博物館のような観光地になっています。


「来週の土曜日あたりに行きたいね~」なんて気軽な気持ちでチケットの値段を調べにインターネットをチェックしたらば、もう5月ぐらいまで予約でいっぱいだったこと判明。
4月は完全に売り切れててびっくりした。
それも時間まで指定してチケットとらないといけないのに。
30分ぐらいずっと予約画面をチェックし続けてたら次の土曜日2時半の回に空きが出て、速攻でチケット買いました。あぁ、5月まで待たなくてよくてよかった。


そんなハリーポッタースタジオツアーに行ってきました。
ダニエル・ラドクリフが1作目で着たハリーの最初の学校の制服を見たり、ハリーが人間界で住んでいる家のセットに入ってみたり、ホグワーツ特急にのってみたり、バタービールを飲んでみたり。


The Warner Brothers studio where all the 8 Harry Potter movies were filmed is now open as an attraction site where you can see all the costumes and props used in the movies.

We found that it was not far from our house, so we were like "well, let's go next Saturday." I'm glad that I checked the website for ticket price because tickets were sold out until May! However, I noticed that the availability comes up as I believe people were changing dates or canceling tickets, so I obsessively refreshed the calendar page for 30 minutes until I saw the availability for the following Saturday and I snatched them up. If you are a real tourist who is visiting London for a few days, you really need to buy the ticket in advance to secure your spot.


I never noticed that the Gryffindor common room's wall is covered with the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries (I read the Tracy Chevalier's book "The Lady and The Unicorn").


And I never noticed how cute Dolores Umbridge's dresses were.



The above are the costumes from the last scene of Deathly Hallows (the "19 years later" epilogue scene). Doesn't Ron look kind of chubby? I had to watch the scene on YouTube and Google it. Yeah, Ron was wearing a fat suit there. Who knew...

As a person who loves watching the "making-of," I thoroughly enjoyed the Studio Tour. However, having been to the Universal Studio's Harry Potter attraction (though only in California), I have to say that general people would probably enjoy the Universal more.

The real movie sets and props are interesting to see, but especially the sets are pretty cheesy in real life, and not much difference from the sets at the Universal. At Universal, you can actually feel that you are in Hogsmeade because you are surrounded by it and you can go to actual stores to shop in Hogsmeade. Plus you get to ride on roller coasters and what-not at Universal.

One thing I liked about the Studio Tour is that you have to buy a time specific ticket. While you can stay there as long as you want, you can't enter it until the specific time you bought the ticket for. That restricts the number of people at the Studio, and therefore the crowd was manageable, and you can still get close to each of the set and prop without being pushed around.