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August 27, 2017

Butterick B5526 Tunic Hack

残暑お見舞い申し上げます。
2週間ばかりかけて、ちまちまとチュニック丈のシャツを作っていました。
型紙は今年もう2回使っている(小花模様のシャツととギンガムのシャツバタリックの5526番
今回は、チュニック丈バージョン。
昨日の夜出来上がって、早速今日一日着て、昼寝して、犬の散歩に行ったところ。なのでしわしわ勘弁。(ちなみに草むらの中を散歩するので、晴れてても常に長靴です)


I have used Butterick B5526 shirt pattern twice now,  the navy blue dirndl left over and a gingham one, but both of them were princess seam shirts. This time, I used a tunic length version (view C) as a base, and altered the front bodice to make a pop-over shirt.

View C is a tunic length shirt. I added pockets from view A (though you can hardly see them on the photo), and also the sleeve tabs from view A.


The main fabric was a floral print cotton lawn, and the accent fabric was cotton/Lycra shirting.


The main alteration was to eliminate the button placket altogether. I cut the front bodice on fold at the center front mark. For the partial placket, I used a tutorial by Beth Galvin (SunnyGal Studio) on Craftsy. It was so easy and really like how it turned out.


I cut a size 10, straightened the hem and added a side slit (for a more tunic look), shortened 5" (so it's about between the view A length and view C length), narrowed the sleeves a bit, and shortened by 2". Narrowed the collar by 1/2", and shortened the height of the collar stand by 1/4". I did try my swayback by 1" but not sure if it made any difference.


I finished it last night, wore it all day today, took a nap in it, and just walked the dogs, so ignore the wrinkles, please.

I think for a tunic length shirt, I need to go up a size. I think the reason for the back bodice wrinkle may be it's too tight around the hips so it is just not hanging right.

I also think I shortened the sleeves too much now. I intend to wear it as a rolled up sleeve (if I don't, what's the use of the sleeve tabs!) so not a big deal for this one.

I like the pocket with a pleated detail but I can hardly find my pockets in the photo. I should have made the pockets with the accent fabric. Oh well.

Overall, I think I was able to make what I envisioned, though it needs some more work. I like how the pop-over alteration went on this one so I am planning to make a another one using the fabric I used as the accent fabric on this one.

August 14, 2017

Revisiting Maria Denmark Day-to-Night Drape Top

寒くならないうちに夏っぽい柄の布を使ってしまいたくて、タンクトップ作りました。
3年前にも作ってる、前身ごろの首周りにドレープができるカウルネックのタンクトップ。布は2015年に作ったカットソーのあまり布。
うち、今体重計がないから知らないふりをしていたけど、やっぱりイギリスに来て、確実に肥えてるな、とこの写真を見て実感。プラス筋肉が落ちてなんていうか、引き締まりがなくなったのよね。


I wanted to use up my summary fabric before the weather gets too cold, so I made a cowl-neck tank top.
The pattern is Maria Denmark 103 Day-to-Night Drape Top.
I made it 3 years ago and that time I cut a size XS but this time, I went up a size and cut a size Small.

The fabric is a left-over from Butterick 5495 project from 2015. I did not have enough fabric to cut the back bodice on fold so it has a center back seam. I was not able to pattern match either, but able to continue the flower direction that goes diagonal.


The fabric is ITY. It is slinky and makes a nice drape, but at the same time it is pasty to my skin. Since this is rather a fitted tank, I lined it with power mesh.

The lining eliminated the need to finish armholes and neck opening, but I had hard time wrapping my head around the orientation of the fabric when I was joining the front and back bodice. I used the method of joining the bodice pieces with lining by finishing the neck and arm hole opening while the front and back bodice pieces are still separated, then joining the bodice pieces at the shoulder to enclose all raw edges.

At the front neck through shoulders, there was the main fabric that folds over inside to act as the facing for the front neck line. With the lining piece also at the shoulder seam, I got very confused and had to re-do the shoulder seams a few times.

I also learned that the power mesh does not take heat very well in a hard way. Yes, I melted the lining a bit. Luckily, it is where the front neck facing drapes over so it is hidden and doesn't touch my skin. Yeah, the melted power mesh turns very hard on the edge...

I definitely have gained weight in England, and I probably have become more flabby from being middle age. Looking at the photos above, I may have to go up another size next time.

August 6, 2017

London Outing in New Look 6892

今日はロンドンに、バッキンガム宮殿を見に行ってきました。宮殿の中に入れるのは夏の数か月間だけなので、いい天気の日を見計らって宮殿視察にレッツラゴー。
とても豪華でした。皇居も一般公開すればいいのにね、とか言ってみたけど、「宮殿」にくらべるとやっぱり皇居はわびさび過ぎて見た目面白みにかけるかも?

お土産に、ユニオンジャックの骸骨マグカップを買ってしまいました。(もちろん宮殿のお土産屋さんではこんなの売ってないよ)骸骨グッズにとても弱い私。とりあえず暖炉の上にかざってみた。厄除けの隣に鎮座。

オットは獺祭。超高級なので、ちっさいボトルで。(たった300ミリリットルでも2千円ぐらいする)


そんなおでかけには、できたてほやほやのブラウスで。
この前使ったニュールックという型紙ブランドの6892番
夏はやっぱり白いブラウスだろ、と思って作ったけど、もうこのあたりでは夏、終わったっぽい(笑)もう1か月ぐらいずっと気温20度ぐらいだよ。周りの人、普通にセーターとかコートとか着てるし。
電車の乗り継ぎ時間を利用して、人気のない駅のプラットフォームで写真撮影。


I wanted a white blouse before summer ended and made a peasant style blouse. I finished it last night and I wore it today to visit Buckingham Palace with my blue chalk line still visible.

By the way, Buckingham Palace is definitely luxurious with high ceilings and plushy carpets. I bought a Union Jack skull mug from a souvenir shop (obviously not from the Palace shop). I'm a sucker for skulls.

The pattern is New Look 6892. I made a short sleeve version (view C) the other day with a border print fabric.


This time, I made a view B, a half sleeve with ruffle.


The fabric is a left over from my dirndl blouse: floral embroidered cotton voile. It also has a woven stripe pattern too. I really like the subtle texture.


I cut a size 6 last time and my armhole was tight, so this time, I cut a size 10, then took in at both center front and center back by 1/2" (1" reduction unfolded, total 2" reduction in circumference).
I lowered the front neck about 1.5", and added an elastic casing under the bust to make it a more peasant look. I'm a sucker for peasant tops.


I really like the sleeve ruffles. I used my rolled hem foot so the narrow sleeve hem was easy peasy.


The original sleeve pattern, though, was waaaay too loose, so I had to reduce it by about 5". I think the original sleeve pattern was about 17" at the bottom where it connects with the ruffle. I also adjusted the ruffle accordingly and cut a 18" strip of fabric for the ruffle.


I probably should have shortened the back bodice, but other than that, I'm really liking my new summery top. Unfortunately, I think the summer is already ending here in England. I felt like I was standing out a bit for wearing a white short sleeve blouse when everyone else is already wearing dark colored jackets and sweaters.

August 1, 2017

Pattern Repeat with Left-Over Fabric

先日作ったニットトップのあまり布でもう一つゆるめのカットソー作りました。
あまり布をきれいに使い切れていい気分。
型紙は、この前作った夏用セーターと同じ型紙、シンプリシティというブランドの1805番なんだけど、ちょっと違うバージョン。ラグランスリーブではなくて、キモノスリーブ(身頃と袖がつながってて、身頃の型紙がハンガーにかかってる着物みたいな形)バージョンです。袖と身頃が同じ型紙なので、縫うところものすごく少ない超簡単トップ。


After I made my Simplicity 1916, wrap shirt, I had a nice size left-over fabric and I was able to squeeze in a kimono sleeve shirt. Thanks to the non-directional, all-over floral print, I didn't have to worry about the print being upside down.


The pattern is Simplicity 1805. I just made a raglan sleeve version the other day, but this time, as I said, it is the kimono sleeve version (view A). It is very very easy to make.


I cut a size XS. Because of the fabric shortage, I did have to add a center back seam. Since I was adding a center back seam, I added a back contouring a bit.
The bodice is shortened 1" above bust and 1.5" at the waist. Shortening above bust consequently narrowed the sleeves (just made a horizontal fold through the sleeves) but sleeves are pretty loose to begin with so it worked.


Now I just have to make sure I don't wear the same fabric twice in a row.