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January 18, 2015

FO: Womanizing Newcastle Cardigan Summary

カーディガン、着てみました。
Newcastle front
ちょっとオヤジっぽくなりすぎた?
オットの感想「箱型」「ボタンとボタンホールの位置が微妙にずれてる」。彼の意見は厳しい。
裏がフリースなのでとても暖かいです。

So my Thread Theory Newcastle cardigan is finished and this is my summary.

I made a view A with accent shoulder and back yoke and small shawl collar.
The main fabric I used is a fleece backed sweatshirt knit (100% cotton), and I used a never-been-used polo shirt (65% poly) in my stash for shoulder and back yoke. The color choice made this a bit too much grandpa-y?
When I made it previously, there was a huge collar gap around my neck and my arm holes were HUGE. So this time, I printed the PDF pattern at 80% and cut a size XL. This eliminated the need of narrow shoulder adjustment and the arm holes were much more to my size.

Of course, by printing the pattern at 80%, it shrunk the collar and front placket but I'm fine with that. Because of the narrow ending of the shawl collar, it rolls out a bit despite understitching. You can see the blue-gray of the polo shirt fabric I used for an undercollar.
I probably should have re-drawn the seam allowance but I just cut the pattern at the cutting line and still used the 5/8" seam allowance. Call me lazy.
The 80% pattern took care of the upper body adjustment but it got too short so I added 3" to the bodice and 3" to the sleeves. It also got a bit too tight so I had to let out 1/2" at the side seams. 
I like the big long cuffs. Nice and warm.

Maybe because of the added interfaced yoke pieces and topstitching, the shoulder/upper chest has some structure and the garment feels more of a jacket than a cardigan. 

One feature I should have added was inseam pockets (not that I have ever made inseam pockets). I wore this to a grocery store today (with my blue chalk marks for button placing still on) and I was unconsciously looking for a pocket to put my key in. 

I am thinking of leaving this at work so that I can wear it whenever my office is freezing, which is pretty much every day (why does the AC kick in in the middle of January and why do I need a space heater year long?).

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