WIP: Womanizing Newcastle Cardigan

先日予告したように、今年の裁縫プロジェクト第1号はカーディガン。
PDFダウンロードの型紙なので、全部プリントして貼ってから型紙を切ります。

実は2013年に一度チャレンジしております。

1st attempt in 2013

首周りがぶかぶかなのが嫌で、結局ほとんど着ずに手放しました。
でもデザインは好きなので、手直しをしてもう一度チャレンジ。
材料は、これ。ポロシャツはアクセントに使おうかと。

I have started my first sewing project of the year, Thread Theory's Newcastle Cardigan.
And it is for me, despite it's a men's pattern.

I made it once back in 2013. Guess what. Thread Theory has my photo on their Pinterest board :)
I really like the design but I did not like the loose neck so I let it go.

One thing I noticed while I was doing some research on other people's Newcastle is that many people, I mean many actual men to whom this pattern is intended, have this loose neck line, or collar gap, so to speak. The collar does not sit close to the neck, and instead, it sits far away creating a huge gap between neck and collar.

This could have be designed on purpose for those gentlemen who like to wear this cardi over a button down shirt. In fact, the neck like of other people's Newcastle looks good if they are wearing a button down shirt underneath. Or it was meant for men with thick neck. However, my neck is not particularly thick and I am planning to wear this over a long sleeve T-shirt. I just do not like the collar gap.

I spent hours researching on how to alter the collar gap but I was not able to decipher what shortening collar or raising collar meant or did so I gave up. My sewing skill is not there yet.
So, I will just make a smaller collar version and see what happens. I don't even plan on making a muslin. Call me a gambler.

One thing I am trying with this one is to instead of cutting an XS, I have printed the patterns at 80%, and cutting an XL. In my previous version, I did narrow shoulder adjustment and 80% pattern takes care of that adjustment. Also it makes the armhole much smaller and not too baggy like my previous version. And like I said, I'm not even making a muslin. Call me a gambler x2.