FO: New Look 6150 Wrap Shirt

赤いカットソー完成。長袖のカットソーが欲しかったの。
カットソーだと思って甘く見たらかなり手直しが必要で、縫ってはほぐし、縫ってはほぐしでした。

Disregard the unpressed back seam.

My wrap shirt is completed. This is my summary.

The pattern is New Look 6150, and I made a view A with gathered, wrapped front and 3/4 sleeves.
Fabric is rayon knit jersey with 8% Lycra. This was actually a kit I bought from Craftsy when it was on sale (the kit comes with fabric and the pattern).

According to my measurements, I am size 12, but I thought the fabric was stretchy enough that I needed some negative ease so I cut a size 10.

My first basted bodice was unfortunately too tight. Because of the very soft drapey fabric, it showed all the lumps and bumps. So I let out at sides and center back.

I inserted the sleeves flat and serged the seams then sewed the sleeve and side. I tried it on at this point, and the fit was terrible. One, the shoulders were drooping, almost like sleeves on a kimono sleeve shirt. Two, the sleeves were too loose. Three, the underarm was so huge that it was like a bat wing shirt. Also the front neck line did not fit me at all. Overall, upper chest portion had just too much fabric. The overwrapped front neck was too high, which was actually accurately depicted in the pattern cover photo, but it did not look good on me.

So I narrowed the sleeves by 5/8", raised the underarm seam and took in the sides from arm pit to waist. I also took in the center back at upper back portion (thus the unpressed seam in the photo above).

The biggest change I had to make was to cut the neck line.

This is how much fabric removed from the front neck line

Because I cut the neck band portion front the front bodice, the back neck is just turned inside and sewn with a silk organza salvage as a stabilizer. The front neck line is just left as is. It gets just folded inside about an inch or so. The wrap hugs my body well enough that the neck line does not gape and the neck line stays folded.

I still think the fit is quite not right, but it's a knit shirt, it's gathered, and it's wrapped. I think I can get away. I may try this pattern again some day, but before I make another wrap version, I think I need to nail the fit better using a view D, which is just a simple 3/4 sleeve T-shirt with no gathers and no wrap.