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August 26, 2018

McCall's M7094 Notched Collar Pull-Over Ver. 2

がくっと寒くなって今日はもう最高気温が20度以下。半そで・短パンで寝てたら寒くて夜中に長袖・長ズボンパジャマに着替えなおしたよ。

この前作ったノースリーブと同じ型紙で、今度は長袖ロールアップバージョンを作りました。

After the wearable muslin, this is the "real" version I made.
The pattern is McCall's M7094.

This time, I made View B, rolled-up sleeve with a tab and accent color neck pieces, and straight hem.


The main fabric is floral print rayon from Sew Over It.


The accent fabric is dusty rose color rayon from eBay. Not the exact color match but I'm pretty happy with the color combo. The accent fabric was used for the collar, front placket, sleeve tabs, and back yoke facing.


My alterations are:
-Cut size XS
-Shorten bodice 1"
-Took in 1" at center back on fold (2" total)
-Took in 1" at center front
-Added a button at front to keep it front gaping open


Because I took 2" from the center back, the gathering detail is very minimal here. I think I might as well just eliminate the gathering altogether next time.


 Sleeve tabs. I wish the end of the tab was arrow shaped. The square shape tab looks a bit lacking.
 

Collar piece.


I did not have a matching dusty rose color thread. Purple was too purple and pink was too light, so I ended up using a light brown thread (the middle line between purple and pink).


I originally attempted to alter the pattern to eliminate the pleats at center front. My brain did not work correctly at all, and my alteration ended up like this: (the plackets were supposed to overlap)


So I overlapped the plackets and made tiny pleats under the placket.


I french-seamed the side seams. I like french seams, but the most difficult part of the french seams is to remember to sew right side out first. I totally forgot that and sewed the sleeves in right side together... I had already picked the basting stitches from the sleeve cap so I just serged the sleeve seams to finish.


I do like the fit but I think I need to add the bodice and sleeve length back to original next time. Other than that, I really like how it turned out. Still struggling with the notched collar corner, though. I hope the fabric does not start fraying after a wash...

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