今回は、肩の傾斜角度を変えてみたら、鎖骨当たりがサクッとはまってくれて、今まで続けてきた型紙の微調整の中でも一番きれいに収まったと思います。今後はもう調整しなくていいぐらい。
ちなみに近況報告をすると、オットの駐在勤務の契約が3月末で切れるというのに未だに今後の予定不明（泣）本来は2月末で切れる契約をすでにひと月更新していて、それでも未決定ですよ。もう1年とどまるのか帰るのか、どっちでもいいから早く決めてほしいです、会社よ。
Daffodils have started to bloom but the Beast from the East II brought snow again so I spent all day on Saturday sewing.
The pattern is, once again, Butterick B5526. I know it's bee the same pattern over and over and it gets kind of boring. But let me tell you something (or let me complain): MOTH's expat contract is until the end of March. It was already extended for a month last month. We still do not know whether we are staying another year or we are going back to the U.S. So I don't really want to buy more stuff or take on a whole new project if I have to pack it all up in a couple of weeks. (Plus the serger is still out of order...) That's why I'm sticking to my stash, which gives me limited things to make. But shirtmaking is very satisfying so I can't complaint about that.
Anyway, this is my Liberty tana lawn shirt #3. I picked the pink-ish print to represent my spring mood. The print is called "Mauvey."
I made a princess seam version with long sleeve and followed some my previous pattern alterations:
-Size 10.
-Use Sewaholic Granville shirt sleeve/cuff/tower placket pattern for a slimmer sleeve and wider cuff.
-Rounded the corner of the cuff.
-Shaved 1/2" at the tip of collar.
-Shortened bodice 1" (I am 5'3").
In addition, I added the following alterations:
-Shaved the outer edge of the collar 1/8".
-Square shoulder adjustment by raising the end of shoulder by 3/8" and raised the underarm by 3/8".
-Took in 3/8" at the bottom of the front princess seam (both front and side front seam where the pencil is pointing in the picture below) to reduce the flare.
-Lower the sleeve cap by 1/2" to reduce ease (and it made no ease at sleeve cap and no need to do ease stitch).
I'm very happy now that the front bodice does not stick out too much (but still enough ease to comfortably sit down and eat a full dinner).
But what I'm most excited about is the effect of the square shoulder adjustment. I mentioned in my last post that the upper chest area right below the collar is collapsing. It's been that way for my other iteration of this pattern but the more I refine the fit, the collapsing became more noticeable. And raising the shoulder angle by 3/8" made all the difference. Now I can apply this alteration to dress patterns so I won't have gaping neck line anymore.
Last time I forgot to top stitch the collar and cuffs so this time I made sure to do that.
Hard to see but this is the flat felled seam over the princess line. Not perfect but getting better at it.
The only regret that I have with this shirt is that I did not do any pattern matching. I did not even think I would need to do pattern matching or need to be mindful of pattern placement because the print is all over. However, now that I'm looking at the photo, the gray flowers in the print really stick out. It was pure luck that the gray flowers are falling somewhat symmetrical but that makes it all the more noticeable.
Well, that pattern placement aside, this is the best fit among all the B5526 I made and I think this is "it." No more pattern tweak. This is my TNT final version.
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