１０年も砂漠に住んでいたので冬に重ね着できる服があまりないことに気づきました。
なのでタートルネックロンT作成。
生地はモダールと絹の混紡ニット。見た目シンプルだけど、触った感じが非常にスムーズで、着るには高級感たっぷりな生地です。
型紙はシンプリシティというブランドの1283番です。
基本的に、ババシャツとして着たかったのでかさばらないように体にフィットな感じ。かなりお腹引っ込目で写真撮影。
生地の値段が高かったので、１メートルで出来上がってよかった。
Having lived in the desert for a decade, I lack garments that I can layer. Now that the weather in England is getting chiller every day, I needed some thermal under-layer shirt. So I made a turtle neck shirt.
The fabric is a modal 85% silk 15 % jersey. I only bought 1 meter because it was pricey. I made a toile using rayon jersey so I could address all the adjustment before I get to the modal/silk. I'm glad I did.
The pattern is Simplicity 1283. It's a Mimi G Style pattern. The pattern envelope comes with a variety of garment (top, skirt, pants, jacket). I made a view A, which is a knit top.
The original pattern is a cropped top, but obviously, I wouldn't want to show my midriff so it's a boring, basic, no frills shirt.
The pattern has CF and CB seam so that you can make a chevron with stripe fabric. I eliminated the CF/CB seam.
To make a full length shirt, I lengthened the pattern by about 9" at the hem. I needed 8" originally, but I shortened above the bust by 1" so I added that back at the hem.
The top is a typical Mimi G Style, I believe, with negative ease. This is my first Mimi G design, but having followed her blog for many years, I think she always makes figure hugging knit garment with negative ease.
Sleeves, however, were surprisingly loose and it had a low armhole. In order to raise the armhole, I shortened the bodice 1" horizontally above bust. I also took in 1" horizontally at the sleeve cap to match the shortened armscye. I then narrowed the sleeves by shaving off 1" from each side. I like how the sleeve fit but the cuff width is too narrow after the adjustment that if I want to pull my sleeve up, it only goes up half way up on my forearm. So next time, I will need to re-draw the sleeve to add maybe 1/2" or so below elbow.
The other thing about the sleeve is that they are pretty long. I personally love long sleeves and my toile sleeves scrunches up and I really like it. However, this shirt is intended to be an under-layer so I wanted the sleeves to be long but not too long. I shortened it by 2".
The original pattern has a high neck collar and zips up from the top part of center back all the way through the collar. Since I eliminated the center back seam, I eliminated the zipper as well. My jersey fabric wasn't stable enough to stand up on its own and my toile collar looked sloppy.
To address that, I doubled up the collar height so it can be worn crunched up or it can be folded over to be a proper turtle neck. Either way, my neck stays nice and warm.
I narrowed the shoulder by 3/8", and also changed the shoulder slope (lower the high neck point). The bottom photo shows how my pattern looks after the adjustment compared to the original size 12. (The traced pattern says 3/8" seam allowance but the photo was taken before I trimmed the seam allowance.)
Luckily, all the pattern pieces fit in 1 meter of fabric. Yey!
I really like how the shirt turned out and it's really nice to wear. I hope this modal/silk jersey will survive with regular laundry cycle...
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