Colette Sorbetto

ディアンドルのエプロン用に買ったシルクの最後の残り布で、タンクトップを作ってみました。
型紙はコレット社の無料ダウンロードパターン、Sorbetto。
次に作るときは胸のダーツの位置をあげたほうがいいな。

I had just enough silk dupioni left-over from my dirndl project and my bow collar blouse for Colette's free downloadable pattern, Sorbetto. They released the "updated" version of Sorbetto last month.

Though Colette's patterns are usually not something I would be interested, Colette's blog was one of the first sewing blogs I started following. From their blog posts, I know they were going through some changes in their business and pattern making and I was intrigued by the "updated" Sorbetto.

I made their "original" Sorbetto back in 2013. This particular one did not survive my purging due to wrong fabric choice (quilting cotton). I don't have my project notes from this one but I remember the armhole being too high and tight and lowering the front neck. Looks like I added a hem band to lengthen.

Sorbetto in 2013

The "updated" Sorbetto, I cut a size 0, and added a center back seam for a bit of contouring.

The pattern has a side bust dart, and ...it looked... funny on the pattern. The bust dart on the pattern looked very symmetrical. Since bust dart was ginormous (drafted for busty ladies), I decreased the bust dart to 2", folded the dart to fix the side seam, then I realized why the bust dart looked funny: it was not trued. When I folded the bust dart to mimic the sewing, it created a big kink in the side seam. There is a good Pattern Review review with a photo of this kink. Glad that I realized it before I started sewing. I smoothed out the side seam and trued with the back bodice pattern.

The pattern called for bias binding finish around the neck and armhole. I did the bias facing instead, without adjusting the pattern, so the neck and armhole openings are consequently wider.

If I am to make another Sorbetto, I will have to raise the bust dart by 1 and 1/2" or so. I would also add seam allowance to the armhole and do the bias facing.

It's a pretty simple shell pattern and it's great that it is free. But I was very disappointed at the side seam kink at the bust dart. It's like WHY?! A commercial, professionally drafted pattern, that only has 2 pattern pieces with only a handful seams, and that kink was proudly on the publicly released pattern?

Aside from that, I think the amount of ease is a appropriate for a woven tank top with no closure.