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June 19, 2016

Making a Dirndl 2

ドイツの民族衣装、ディアンドル作成日記その2はブラウス。
ディアンドルは基本的にジャンパースカート、ブラウス、エプロンで構成されています。着物で言う、長襦袢、着物、帯、みたいな感じかな。
ブラウスと言っても、簡素化された、胸の下までの短いシャツで、私が作成しているのは胸元が四角くて、パフスリーブバージョンです。
試し縫い3回目でやっと満足できるところに達しました。
This is my dirndl blouse muslin #3.

Muslin #1 went terrible. The sleeve of Burda 7057 is like a mutton sleeve: huge and gathering only at the top of the sleeve cap. It just looked ridiculous on me. Also the back neck was gaping.

Muslin #2 fixed the back neck gaping by adding 1/2" to upper back (round-back/forward neck adjustment). My attempt to make the sleeve smaller was unsuccessful and modified sleeve felt very uncomfortable.

I sat on the sleeve for a week. I even considered drafting the sleeve pattern on my own, and watched Suzy Furrrer's Creative Sleeve class on Craftsy (which is worth every penny, especially if you buy it when it is $19.99).

At the end, I decided to use Gertie's Butterick B6217 sleeve and modified it to fit the armhole on the bodice. I was glad that I had watched Suzy's Craftsy class so that I kind of got the basic idea of the sleeve pattern.
I am happy with the muslin #3 with a minor tweak (need to pinch the front neck just a bit) and I think I can move on to my real fabric.

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