防寒仕様ではないので雪が降る中で着るには寒いけど、砂漠地帯ではこれで冬を越すのにちょうどいいぐらい。MA-1ジャケットに感化されています。
My Minoru jacket is done!
So, let's summarize before I forget.
The pattern is Sewaholic's Minoru Jacket pattern. A made a view A, which has a hood that can be hidden in the zippered collar.
I cut a size 6 and narrowed at hip/hem to size 0, which is my typical alteration for Sewaholic patterns. I also shortened the bodice and sleeves by 1" (I'm 5'3").
I really like the length. It covers my butt nicely but not too long. I also like the length of the sleeves (thumb length).
The fabric is a cotton twill that has kind of fuzzy/velvety texture on one side. I used the plain size as the right side and velvety side as wrong side. The lining is orange Ambiance.
I used orange #5 molded plastic zippers for front and exterior pocket, and nylon coil zipper for the hood. I erroneously ordered a separating zipper for the hood, which I did not realize until I had already made the zipper opening. So I had to add some scrap lining to cover the end of the zipper.
I also used orange top stitching thread for top stitching. Maybe I should call this MA-1 Minoru.
For the inner pocket, I just used 1 pocket on the inside left front bodice only. I added pieces of scrap twill on the wrong side of the lining where pocket corners attached. Hopefully the lining won't rip. Since I don't see myself using this pocket so I'm not too worried. I did lengthen the pocket by 1". The pattern pocket looked too small.
The major issue as so many people had already said about this great pattern is that it does not come with exterior pockets. A jacket must have exterior pockets! So I eyeballed the pocket placement and used the lining fabric for the pocket bag. Glad that I had just watched Janet Pray's Craftsy class and saw how the zippered pocket is done. Though this was my very first zippered pocket for a garment, basically it was the same as the zipper on the collar or zipper on a purse. My top stitching around the zipper was a bit wonky, but I am immensely proud of my zippered pockets.
The other change I made was the hood. Since I read the reviewers saying the hood is really big and pointy, I cut the size 0 hood, then I reduced the hood pattern by 2". I then cut a 4" (plus seam allowance) strip to make a 3-piece hood. The fit of the hood is pretty darn good.
The sleeves were bit on the tight side to wear over a sweat shirt so I let out 1/4" or so. The fabric shows the perforation from the previous stitch line but hopefully nobody will look at the underarm seams so closely.
I like the elastic on the back bodice. No need for swayback adjustment.
The other thing I did was to add a second collar lining. I read many people disappointed at raw seam showing where the collar/hood piece attaches to the back bodice when the collar is out. I followed the instruction of Spiffy Stitches blog to remedy.
I'm still on the edge whether I should have interfaced the collar piece or not. The twill is hardy enough that it stays upright even when the hood is not zipped in, but I don't know...
The jacket is definitely a casual weekender type jacket and it's not meant for a full-fledged winter jacket. I considered using flannel for lining or interlining to make it warmer but I'm glad I did not for the size I cut. If I were to winterize this jacket, I will have to go up a size or two. But for the desert winter, this jacket will do.
There are some wonky top stitching and skipped stitches if you look closely, but I am very very very happy with and excited about this jacket. My very first jacket and the most complicated garment I have ever made and I will call it proudly a huge success.
Hi - I found your blog via Pattern Review, I am researching Minorus. I love your choice of colors and you did a beautiful job.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Chris. I wore the jacket pretty much every day since I made it and still love it, though sadly, the weather has turned too warm for a jacket here. If you are going to make one, make sure to add external pockets!
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