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July 28, 2019

Summer Shirt: Jalie 3130

深南部の夏は、うだるぐらい蒸し暑い。5月からずっと。砂漠に10年、イギリスに2年で、こんな汗かく夏は久しぶり。ポリエステルの服とか、触りたくもないぐらい。
なので夏らしいコットンのシャツを作りました。シャツ作るの、結構好き。


Summer in the Deep South is quite sweaty. Too sweaty that I don't even want to touch some of my short sleeve shirts made out of poly knit/ITY knit. So I made a cotton shirt.


The pattern is Jalie 3130. This is a 3/4 sleeve shirt with sleeve tab option. It has breast pockets and waist darts at front and back.


The fabric is a 100% cotton oxford shirting. Supposedly J Crew fabric according to Fabric Mart. I'm glad that I was able to use this fabric that I bought 4 years ago.

The buttons are from MOTH's dress shirt. When his shirts get tattered, I salvage the buttons. The non-descriptive white shirt buttons are very handy.


I cut a size S and modified as follows:

  • Shortened the bodice 1.5": 3/4" at the lengthen/shorten line above bust and another 3/4" at the waist (I'm 5/3");
  • Tapered the side seams from waist to hip by 5/8" at the hem; and
  • Raised the button placement for the sleeve tab by 1".
The pattern called for interfacing on the collar pieces only but I also added interfacing for center front, cuff and pocket flap as well.



I wanted the shirt to be elbow length when rolled up. I don't intend to wear this cool color in winter so I rolled the cuff up 3 times. When I did that, the sleeve tabs were too long and that's why I had to raise the button placement up by 1". I need to shorten the tabs by 2" in the future.


This pattern was surprisingly very curvy for Jalie in my opinion. It's pretty looser fit but nips at the waist. I may go down a size and let out the waist darts (because I'm rectangular) or keep this size and take in the side seams above the waist next time.

There is a glaring fit issue that did not show up on the photo: there is a pool of fabric at the back neck. I either need to do a square shoulder or forward shoulder adjustment, but I don't know how to do that with a yoke going over the shoulder.

I also think my pocket placement needs to be a little bit toward the center. By the way, this pattern has only 1 pocket size for all sizes.

So can I say this is a J Crew shirt?

Worn with Ginger Jeans.

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