Making a Dirndl 10 - Dress Completed!

やっとこの日がやってきました。ディアンドルのワンピース完成。
腹回りはリボンでレースアップするんだけど、まだリボン買ってないのでその辺はお預け。
次はこのワンピースの上に着るエプロンです。

Finally, my dirndl is completed. I don't have an appropriate ribbon for the lace-up but all the sewing is done.

The pattern is Burda 7057. I have previously made a dirndl blouse from this pattern to go with this dirndl.

For the bodice, I cut a size 10 at shoulder, 12 at bust, then 14 at wast. I also let out 1/4" at the side seams but I think it was unnecessary. The bodice is much roomier than it should be, but at least I will be able to eat and drink without being uncomfortable.

The fabric is a Japanese cotton shirting (not that I bought in Japan). I added fusible interface for the bodice pieces. The bodice is lined with Ambiance and the skirt is left unlined.

I also shortened the back bodice length by 5/8" at center back as a sway back adjustment.

Though the pattern did not include, I added a contrast piping for the princess seam, neck line, and arm holes. I messed up the order of construction when adding the piping, so the front horizontal neck line piping is not continuous. I used 5/32" cable cord for piping that I found at the home dec section of JoAnn, but I think it is a bit too chunky.

I also added a pair of boning to the front princess seam. I'm not sure if it was necessary since the bodice is pretty stable thanks to the chunky piping.

The pattern called for a ribbon for the neck line trimming. I just made a 1" tubing using the main fabric and the contrast fabric for cohesiveness. (I used this tutorial video)
The trim jumps over the zipper and buttons onto the other side with snaps. (See this video)

For the skirt, I totally ignored the pattern and just cut 2 panels of rectangular and pleated instead of gather.
I also added pockets. These pockets are in the inner fold of the skirt pleats. (See this video)

Again, the pattern calls for pretty generous amount of fabric. I only needed 2 2/3 yards of main fabric, 2/3 yard of lining, and 1 yard of quilting cotton for contrast fabric.

Next up is the apron to complete the dirndl.

Making a Dirndl 9

ヒダヒダは、赤いほうを使うことに決めました。
ヒダヒダつけて、裾をあげたら完成よ。

I did not like the look of piping at the center front so I took it off. Definitely better this way.
The skirt has been attached and the zipper is in.
All I have to do is to attach the trim, hem, and attach the hooks for the lacing. I have decided to go for the red side of the trim. Hopefully I can finish it this weekend. The end is near!

Making a Dirndl 8

ドイツの民族衣装、ディアンドルの腹回りの編み上げ部分につける金具を買いました。
ドイツから届いたわよ。
エーデルワイス（西洋薄雪草）モチーフの金具です。

I'm not exactly "making" a dirndl today, but the dirndl hooks have arrived all the way from Germany!

Making a Dirndl 7

作成中のドイツの民族衣装、ディアンドル。３連休だったので、はかどりました。
まだ首周りのヒダヒダをどうするか迷っているので、スカートができてから考えます。

Back bodice: princess seam and piping

Bodice front

It was a three-day weekend and I made a good progress on my dirndl.
I am still debating on the trim so I will think about it when everything else is done.

I made a crucial mistake when I was sewing the piping on the front bodice. Somehow, I made a turn from the princess seam to neck line then continued on around the neck, and came down on the princess seam. Yeah, I forgot there is a center front panel too... So the piping is not continuous at the horizontal front neck line. Oh well.

Now that I am seeing these photos, maybe I shouldn't have added the piping on the center front. The piping looks too strong there. Oh well.

The third hindsight is that I might have chosen a wrong interface. I wanted some body but the interface that I chose was a bit too crisp. Oh well.

Overall, I am happy so far. This is my first very structured dress and I even used boning for the first time. Let's see how it hangs with a skirt.

Making a Dirndl 6

ドイツの民族衣装、ディアンドルの胸周りにはヒダヒダな飾りがついていたりします。ヒダヒダの種類もいろいろってプリーツだったり、ヒラヒラだったり、ハート形だったり。

私は無難にボックスプリーツ型の飾りにすることに決めました。
メインのワンピースの布と、パイピングに使うえんじ色の布でプリーツを作ってみました。赤いほうを使うか紺色の小花柄を使うか検討中。

I have finally cut into my fabric for my dirndl. I am going to add a piping in the front seams, neck and armholes with burgundy (the photo is pretty washed out from the bright sun light) and made a box pleats trim using the main navy fabric on one side and burgundy on the other. 

Once the trim is attached to the dress, I will hand-sew the "puff" part by hand (where I have pinned temporary) to make it 3-dimensional. But I am not sure which side I want to use, more navy with just a hint of burgundy to just give it a little texture and the accent color? Or use burgundy as main color for the trim as a statement? I will re-visit this when the dress is ready for the trim.

Making a Dirndl 5

仮縫い２つ目。
型紙のサイズ一つ上げて作り直してみました。長さも伸ばしてみた。
やっぱりウェストがきつくて縫い代出したけど、着心地は断然よくなりました。
アルプスの少女ハイジっぽくなってきた？もしくはサウンドオブミュージック。

Muslin #2. Please ignore the muffin top.
I went up a size and lengthened a bit. I still had to let out the seam allowance at the waist but feels better now. Looks like it is a bit loose below my bust but I will go with this.