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December 17, 2017

Swoon Sydney Crossbody Bag

先日のポーチに引き続き、残り物の布を使って肩掛けカバンを作りました。
要するに全く同じ布コンビです。


旅行の時なんかに色々入れられるようにポケットがたくさんついた大き目のメッセンジャーバッグタイプの鞄です。
型紙はSwoonという鞄の型紙屋さんのシドニークロスボディという型紙です。


超大満足で、早速スターウォーズ見に行くのに使ってみました。
ファスナーにつけるタブをわざわざ買ったんだけど、結局今の鞄についていたキティちゃんキーホルダーをつけなおしました。キティちゃんに年齢は関係ないのよ。

I liked the brown vinyl and tartan fabric combo from the Blue Calla Clematis Wristlet so much that I have made a full-brown bag with left-over fabric.

The pattern is Sydney Crossobdy from Swoon Sewing Patterns. All the fabrics are left-over from previous projects.

First thing I did was to trace off the patterns onto manila folder and made a template. In addition to the "pattern pieces" that were printed, I also cut all the "in addition to the pattern pieces, also cut these rectangulars" pieces.

I don't think I will be making more of this pattern, but it makes it easy for me to mark and keep track of what pieces to cut with what material in what dimension. I have learned from the Clematis Wristlet that bag patterns don't do the pattern markings that dress patterns do, so I added notches at center and pleats and what-nots, and added grain lines. I also punched holes for magnetic snap placement and cut out opening for welt zipper placement for easy marking.


The pattern called for a center-pleated cargo pockets at the front. Since my "wool-effect" main fabric was very thick (plus I interlined with duck canvas), I omitted the center pleats. For magnetic snaps, I used the "slim" magnetic snaps, which feel more upscale than regular magnetic snaps for some reason.

My topstitching around the pocket flaps were less than perfect, but I can live with that.



The pattern called for one end of the main bag opening zipper to end flush with the zipper panel, but I extended the zipper on both ends.

The lining has a welt zipper pocket. I ran out of Ripstop so I used a scrap Japanese cotton fabric from my two-piece set for pocket lining. I added a mesh slip pocket and a bottle keeper on the other lining. 



The front panel has 2 flap pockets and a zipper pocket.


The back panel has a large slip pocket. The pattern instructs you to sew the bar tack at the pocket top center to keep the slip pocket from gaping. Instead, I added a magnetic snap. I also added a small welt zipper pocket inside the slip pocket. This is my hidden pocket to keep change.







I found these zipper tabs that matched my vinyl. I did however swap the zipper pocket tab to my Hello Kitty key chain that I had on my existing bag. What can I say, I'm a Hello Kitty girl no matter how old I get.




Bag in action at a movie theater. Worn together with my Minoru jacket.


The construction of the bag was actually much easier than I anticipated. It's just many pieces to cut and sew, but it's nothing more difficult than making a zippered pouch. I wish dress making was as straight forward as bag making...

December 9, 2017

Blue Calla Clematis Wristlet

犬のベッドカバーを作った残りの布が、「私を鞄にしてください」と言っていたので、手始めにポーチを作ってみました。
Blue Callaという鞄の型紙屋さんが無料ダウンロードで出している型紙のクレマチスという型紙を使用。
アクセントに使っているのはコスプレでベストを作った残りのビニール布。
裏布はリュックサックを作った時に買った布のあまり。
と、無料ダウンロードの型紙とあまり布で作り上げた、とっても低価格なポーチです。
チェック柄もちゃんとマッチできて、大満足です。


The fabric I bought for making the dog bed/crate mat covers was so nice and substantial but soft, and it was screaming "Make me into a bag!" So I made a wristlet.


The pattern is The Clematis Wristlet from Blue Calla. It is a free download!


The main fabric, as I said, is the left-over "wool effect" cotton/poly blend upholstery fabric. I really like this fabric.

The accent fabric is a brown vinyl left-over from my Zoe Washburn costume

And the interior is the Ripstop left-over from my backpack.

Since all the fabric was left-over, I splurged myself with loads of hardware: D-rings, lobster clasps, belt sliders, and rivets, all in antique brass colorway.


There is a slip pocket inside. I apparently forgot to change the bobbin thread when I top stitched the zipper.

Speaking of top stitching. I used a bonded nylon thread for top stitching. I wanted something substantial for top stitching over vinyl and bonded nylon worked really well. Now I have a ginormous cone of brown thread so all my future vinyl project will most likely be brown.


I'm still very novice in sewing vinyl and using rivets, but I am very pleased with how this turned out.
Since I have just enough vinyl/main/and lining fabric left over, I am going for a full-fledged bag making with this combo next.

December 3, 2017

I lied: Another Simplicity 1283

初雪降りました。雪国ではないので積もるほど降りません。

先日のお家ジャケットの残り布で、タートルネックのトップを作りました。
型紙は、やっぱり同じ型紙で、シンプリシティの1283番
なんか、袖が短すぎたわ。手首がちょっと寒い。そして袖ちょっと細めすぎた。下にババシャツ着てるとちょっとゴロゴロするのね。


I thought the last smoking jacket was the last of this pattern, but I lied. I used the left over fabric from the jacket and made a top. I was kind of going for a Toaster Sweater by Sew House Seven look.


So the pattern is the Mimi G design Simplicity 1283 that I've been using over and over for the past couple of months.


I used the view A, cropped top pattern, that I modified to make a regular T-shirt length shirt.
I pretty much used the same modification and changed bit to accommodate the thicker, less stretchy, quilted jersey. The modifications include:

(I cut size 12)
-Lengthened by 9 5/8"
-Narrowed shoulder by 3/8"
-Horizontally taken in above bust by 1" and match the sleeve cap
-Let out 1/2 to 1" at side seams
-Narrowed sleeve by 3/8" both seams
-Shortened sleeves by 2"


My modified pattern was for a fitted stretchy shirt, so even though I thought I put some ease back,  it was not enough for this type of sweater look. The armpit and the upper sleeves are a bit crowded with a long sleeve shirt underneath.

Note to myself for next time.
-Make the neck opening larger
-Double up collar height to roll it down
-Lower armhole or eliminate the 1" horizontal shortening
-Loosen sleeves
-Lengthen sleeves back to original pattern length.
-Let out at bust
-Add CB seam and contour?

One thing I noticed about this fabric, a poly quilted jersey, is that it is surprisingly NOT warm at all.
By the way, I'm wearing my Simplicity 1283 knit pants. I need to work on the under-butt wrinkles...